OK, I'm relatively new to houseboating, though my parents did have a Terra Marine when I was a kid, but I'm curious. The experts on the board (whom I have learned to listen too, even if I don't always agree with them) insist that a conversion to outboards would be bad.

Just intuitively though I see a lok of advantages to outboards including the already mentioned lower maintenance, easier to pull for repair/replacement, and the yet to be mentioned longer boating season (a big one for me!). Since I have an OMC the perts availablity is also a big plus to me. Sure, I can get parts for my OMC, but it frequently requires the mechanic finding the problem and telling me what parts he can't get, then me getting online and ordering them, waiting a week to 10 days to get here, drop by the mechanic, and wait another week for him to get it fixed - a quarter of the boating season gone. An engine with a dealer with a parts would be GREAT.

I remember the old outboards on my dads TM, but the new outboards aren't even in the same family! There are even the large propped, high torque models designed for displacement hulls, which I notice is how most houseboats are operated at our lake regardless of hull type. At these gas prices people just don't seem as interested in getting on a plane and seem to just putt a long. Have the experts tried the new generation of outboards?

As far as modifying the original, I'm generally pretty hardcore about leaving things the way they were designed. The only after market attachment to my motorcycle is a plug to plug my walkman into the radio (socket provided by the designers) and the antenna ball. But the motor cycle is designed with new technology. My boat is 34 years old. 4 stroke outboards didn't exist then. I don't think RV air conditioners did either. Boy am I glad somebody installed one of THOSE! Even the gasoline available today is different than the gas available 34 years ago (try running a 30 year old high performance motorcycle on the modern excuse for high octane gas! The old manual insisted "at least 110 octane", which as far as I can tell isn't made anymore!). I'm not sure that 30 year old technology is still the best way to power the boat. I also admit enough ignorance that I don't know that it's not the best way either. I would like to hear actual experiences or solid reasons why it's bad, and like someone said, resale for me isn't a concern. If I can get my money back in the end, fine, but I bought it to use and enjoy, not sell.

BTW- someone at the dock came up with the best reason I've heard not to repower with outboards. Assuming you'd want big twins, you're looking at $5000+ each for the motors. Probably another $1000 or more in mounting hardware. even ignoring rewiring, plumbing fuel to the outboards and the unexpected expenses sure to pop up, best case scenario is that repowering with outboards will run $11,000. That's a lot of money to spend on a boat I paid less than $17000 for and that will buy a lot of repairs to the IO. It would probably be smarter to put the money towards downpayment on a newer boat or what I'll probably do...buy beer.

I am not sure where to start cwhite. You have a lot of half truths, misunderstandings and also have simply missed some posts. First off the methods used to obtain octane ratings has changed. If you tested that 101 fuel of yesteryear it would not make the 101 grade by todays standards. Here is some history http://www.imoc.co.uk/technical/article/octane.htm#q1

Early in the thread I asked the question "why repower?" Is the motor in need of replacement? If you expect to save fuel switching from an Inboard to outboards it ain't gonna happen. My 30 foot Marinette with a 360 Chrysler would burn 5 gallons an hour @25 knott cruise. My dad's 105 outboard on his 18 Footer is no better. As far as fuel efficiency: if you thinking putting around @5 knotts is fuel efficient with a hull designed to plane than you are fooling yourself. If you need more info go to http://www.boatdesign.net There are a few examples posted where the boat is designed for maximum efficiency @20 knotts as an example. I think the numbers were like 5 Gals an hour @5 Knotts and 17 Gals an hour @20. With that example traveling 20 NM you would use 20 gals doing 5 knotts and take four hours OR you coul get there in an hour and burn 17. Of course EVERY boat is different. A displacement hull is designed for slower hull speeds. They may only burn 1 Gallon an hour @ say 7 knotts but 2 Gallons @10 so in their case slower is better. As a general rule though a planing boat is more efficient if on plane then "in the water" plowing along.

New rebuttal. Outboards are not lower maintenance than Inboards. I don't know how that one started. They are however about on par with an I/O, possibly slightly lower. I maintain an outboard for my dad and Inboards for my boat. Inboards are more reliable, at least under demanding conditions. Outboard do not due as well when they are shifted a lot. My example was the commercial crabber friend that tried them for a few seasons. They always needed lower unit replacements by season end. The ones with 671 Detroits seldom break. Again I/Os are a different story. I think they are the worst of both worlds. You are mating a high torque american V8 to a weak lower unit from an outboard designer. I simply won't buy an I/O. Another issue with outboards, especially 2 strokes is the lower torque. The person posting here with a succesful conversion did it on a relatively light aluminum hull. It was also a power increase as it had been converted from 225 Horse Chryslers to 80 horse diesels.

I guess in general I would be more inclined to put Vdrives where I/Os are now rather than outboards but again hull design is a HUGE factor. The fact that my 50 Foot, 36000 pound burns will get up and run with two small 350 chevys tells me something about the available torque that you just can't muster looking at horsepower ratings. Heck if I had those new 8.1s I would be easy into the mid thirties with a high 20 cruise speed. hummm 30 knotts @30 gallons an hour or 5 knotts @5 gallons an hour. I think I would rather get there then kick back and relax.

Oh a little background I am in the Chesapeake bay where 2 to 3 ft chop is quite normal on the weekend. My wife got drenched last week on the fron deck when a 40 foot cruiser cut us off. He was doing about 30 and passed within 100 feet of my bow. So if I were bobing around out there at 6-8 knotts I would be fish food.
woodboat38182.3198958333

Very good Woodboat, I was just going to say again hull design has a lot to do with it. I like 454s and V-Drives, no outboard will perform on a planeing hull Houseboat like V- drives. They are almost bulletproof and there is not much that could be done to improve them. Flat Bottom or very light low displacement boats they will work OK. Most lake houseboats are mostly flat bottom, and the outboards just do not have the torque to move a steel 52 ft Stardust the way IOs will. (no Vs on these) Light shallow draft boat they will work but I would never pay the price for the outboards. The less maintaince thing is not so, I have a full service installation and the outboards and IOS are stacked up. Almost no V-drive work. Cutlass bearing is about it. I heard a story of a guy putting his V-drive in reverse the other day at 3500 RPM, it did not tear it up. That is almost unbelievable. Outboards have weak lower units and to get parts you will wait awhile. You find a boat with the engine blown and the outdrive about gone, by all means put a outboard on and putt around. get a used one for $600 and you will be OK. I have a 34 ft Sana Cruz that an outboard would work fine on. light and shallow draft. I just cannot see putting $11,000 in a $10,000 boat and it not be as good as it was. Rule of Thumb, weight over 16,000 lbs length over 45 ft. leave it the way it was

Some specifics - thanks.

If worse comes to worse (rhetorical question here, so far my motor/outdrive is working fine). What would be entailed in a power conversion from a single OMC I/O with a ford v8 to something still made? The size of the boat (32 ft) and layout would make V-drive almost impossible without a complete remodel (no way to move motor forward).

A V-drive on a single application is not the most desirable thing as many people cannot operate them. Forward is fine but when you reverse it will go which ever way it is proped generally to port. You have to run it like the old single engine Cruisers of the 60s with stright drives. I got Gibson to build one in 1976 with a 454 it would move but they would call me to dock it. Sold it and I still had to dock it. They just could not understand that you have to go slow.

As far as a Vdrive, you are probably confusing that with a straight drive. In a V drive the engine is all the way aft. The transmission output goes forward then is turned around with a gear box and goes out the bottom of the boat. http://www.simplicity-marine.com/velvetdrive-borgwarner.htm With a straight drive the shaft, transmission and engine are in-line with the engine about 10 feet or so forward of the transom. 5.0 and 5.7 V8 chevys are still made brand new. I would say unless you get a great deal on a donor pair I wouldn't consider it. If you purchased new those Vs are $3800 each. The engine would be $3300. Then you have things like a shaft and rudder as well as new steering connected to the rudder. Unless I really loved the boat and was not gonna sell for many, many years I would not consider new. Again I would consider it if I had a donor boat. You know the kind, went under a low bridge and ripped the roof off kind. here are two http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem& ;rd=1&item=2484044613&category=26432

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem& ;rd=1&item=2484517726&category=26432



As examples, but of course they don't have Vs

You can find some Borg warner setups on Gibsons in the 70 vintage rather cheap as many are just sitting full of water. Carlcraft included. Guy in texas had one the keel broke on and it was totaled. I will see if I can find his number. Many cruisers had Vs from 28 ft and a lot of hurrican boats are still being parted out. Here is an Email address and URL for parts at the right price. Email This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it

http://www.eastcoastmarinesales.net/

by all means check on that number pirate, I'm still waiting on a settlement check, but it should be enough to atleast get the necessary items (if not enough to have them installed as well.)

I just hope things get settled soon for my cash flow, I'm dying to get started on this project!

Oh, another thought, what is your opinion on fiberglass hulls that are 30 years old? I've heard they get brittle with age.