I just recently got my drifter. It has a Raritan system. I'm going to do some checking tomorrow to find out just what I do have. It isn't in the water due to repair that was not disclosed in sale. I don't think I totally understand the system. Houseboating is new to me. When unloading from the trailer,I observed a wood stob shoved into a hole in the bottom of the boat from the underside. Nobody knew what it could be for. I believe I have found some information on it. I found another just like it in the bathroom floor next to my Raritan. So...conclusion... it was a plumbing hole for discharge into the lake. Now there is a hose going across the bathroom floor down the wall into the bedroom. Cutting across the bedroom going under the bed and across the floor throught the rear bedroom wall into a Bladder type holding tank. What a cobbled up mess. Then I found the water pump under the bathroom sink. It appears that a push button was installed in the cabinet. Maybe a cylinoid on the inside of the sink cabinet. Also saw a tee in the water line, and accumulator,(what is that for?) The decontaminant tank was under the sink. Not hooked to anything. Would you have some ideas of how I might test the system before it goes into the lake? Am trying to get it winterized somewhat...since I dock in Greers Ferry Lake, AR. it isn't likely to get extremely cold here. I did drain the holding tank but could put some back in for a system test. Will hopefully know some more as I am planning on getting more aquainted with my " Joy Toy"  most of the day tomorrow. Do you have any ideas of what I should be looking for?     Please note: my "Joy Toy" is refering to my houseboat not the head. A little pun there.    

You have a bunch of issues to address.

First, what do you mean by Raritan "system"...just a Raritan toilet or is there more attached to it (Lectra/San or PuraSan)? Do you know which model toilet you have?

>When unloading from the trailer,I observed a wood stob shoved into a hole in the bottom of the boat from the underside. Nobody knew what it could be for. I believe I have found some information on it. I found another just like it in the bathroom floor next to my Raritan. So...conclusion... it was a plumbing hole for discharge into the lake. <

Without seeing it, I'd agree you're right. However, a wood stob shoved into a below waterline thru-hull is NOT the way to plug a thru-hull...the wood will rot, the plug will fall out, and your boat will sink. Since you're on a "no discharge" inland lake where only a holding tank that can only be emptied by pumpout is legal, that thru-hull needs to be properly sealed...either by installing a seacock or glassing it over--which is what I'd recommend.

> Now there is a hose going across the bathroom floor down the wall into the bedroom. Cutting across the bedroom going under the bed and across the floor throught the rear bedroom wall into a Bladder type holding tank. What a cobbled up mess.>

At least it's a legal system. However, bladders are a poor choice for waste holding...AND if the hose from the toilet to that tank is much longer than about 6', it's way too far from the toilet.

> Then I found the water pump under the bathroom sink. It appears that a push button was installed in the cabinet...<

Are you sure that's not a shower sump pump? Your boat is step down, which means the shower drains below the waterline...so it would have to go into a sump to pumped overboard through a thru-hull above the waterline.

>It appears that a push button was installed in the cabinet. Maybe a cylinoid on the inside of the sink cabinet.>

That's either the flush button for the toilet or the switch for the sump pump.

> Also saw a tee in the water line, and accumulator,(what is that for?)>

Does that tee connect to the toilet? If so, that's a no-no...connecting any raw water toilet to the fresh water system risks contaminating the potable water supply.

An accumulator helps to provide a steady of flow water while reducing how often and how the water pump has to run.

As for testing the system before it goes back into the lake...first you need to know where the flush water comes from. Any 3/4" ID hose connected to the back of the toilet pump SHOULD go to a thru-hull. If it does, disconnect it from the thru-hull and stick it into a bucket of water...flush the toilet.

The only work that has to be done before the boat goes back in is sealing up the below-waterline thru-hull that allowed the toilet to flush directly overboard....the rest can be done in the water. Before you do anything else, I suggest you check out the _link_ in my signature...it provides detailed instructions for installing and maintaining a toilet and holding tank.

 Ok... the Raritan is a Crown Head. Does that say anything? There appears to be a macerator. The hose is longer than 6ft that goes to the bladder. Don't know anywhere else to put it. Will look for options. Am planning on getting the stob out of the bottom and getting a plate welded over the hole. Will that be adequate? The Raritan is a electric model and the push button is for the flushing. The pump hooks to the fresh water tank and the bath sink another goes toward the galley. The feed for the head is via a 3/4" line coming from the floor behind the head. Wondered if it comes from the lake. Went under boat to see if I could see a place where it would intake from and found nothing. Will do further investigating Monday. Will look for a water system pump or a shower discharge pump. I make a list of stuff    to look for so I'm making it this weekend. The tee valve on the head water feed line goes to the decontaminant tank was removed and tank removed. I did find the area about the rest of the head. It says Lectra/San.

The Crown Head is a macerating electric toilet, designed to use raw (lake, river, sea) water for flushing. You'll find drawings and the manual for it on the Raritan website at http://www.raritaneng.com

I strongly suspect that what you're calling a "decontaminant" tank is actually the salt tank for the Lectra/San....it needs salt water to work, so a salt tank would be needed in fresh--or even brackish water. The Lectra/San is a Type I MSD that treats and discharges waste. Unfortunately, it will have to come out too...'cuz Greers Ferry is now a "no discharge" lake...al toilet waste must go into a tank that can only be emptied by pumpout. I hope you haven't tossed the salt tank...'cuz depending upon the age/condition of the Lectra/San you may be able to sell it....in fact someone here--ihoppoet, who started the thread you originally tacked your questions onto--is looking for a bargain on a L/S.

If your hull is steel, a plate over the hole in the hull will be fine...but if it's fiberglass, it should be filled and glassed over.

Btw...I'm in Little Rock...and after the holidays could be talked into coming up to Greers Ferry on a Saturday or Sunday to take a look at the boat and help you sort out all the plumbing and figure out what needs to be done.

 The decontaminant tank that I was talking about is a plastic tank about the size of a windshield washer tank on a automobile. It takes a solution that is blue. I have several small bottles of it under the bathroom sink. I thought it was something like a blueing like somepeople use in home toilets. Don't know about a salt tank. the system has this hose and empties into that bladder tank. gets pumped out via pumping station. No access "any longer" to dump into lake. However if this system won't actually work "as is" I want to attempt to fix it. I was told it was set up properly. Maybe just another lye. If I don't come to a proper fix... I think maybe you are right.  I need you to take a look see if we can figure out what to do.

That tank has to be owner added...something the PO did when he installed the bladder.

Whether the system works depends on how you define "works." If all you care about is whether you can flush the toilet and whether the waste goes into the tank, it probably works.

If you want a trouble-free system and an odor-free boat (inside the boat AND outside around it)--iow, do it right--I'd replace everything but the toilet...I'd rebuild the toilet.

You've said the plumbing looks like a spaghetti fight...it shouldn't. Bladders are a horrible choice for waste holding...their very nature makes it all but impossible to prevent odor...it isn’t at all uncommon for a bladder to blow out its fittings at the first sign of a clog...and they have a relatively short life-expectancy--only about 15 years. If the bladder isn't vented, you'll have no choice but to replace it...'cuz CG safety regs require ALL waste holding tanks to be vented to the outside of the hull because waste produces expanding gasses that can blow out fittings or even burst the tank, and because methane is flammable.

Although you’ll see a lot of aluminum and stainless holding tanks on houseboats, _meta_l is an even worse choice for waste holding than a bladder. Urine is the most corrosive material it’s possible to put next to any _meta_l. While the sheet _meta_l walls of a _meta_l holding tank may last up to a decade (rarely any longer once it’s actually put in use to hold sewage), _meta_l tanks will typically begin to leak at a seam or a fitting in two to five years. You may be able to repair it, but the first leak is always just the first leak; the tank is gradually turning into a collander. Stainless will last a little longer than aluminum, but even the best 316 stainless holding tank rarely lasts more than 10 years.

Rotationally molded seamless polyethylene with a minimum wall thickness of about 3/8” for the smallest tank is the only material that should be used for waste holding. Holding tanks are made from linear, not cross-_link_ed (as fuel tanks must be) polyethylene; therefore anything thinner is likely to permeate. Furthermore, if the wall thickness doesn’t continue to increase with size, the tank walls will be too weak to support the 8.333 pounds per gallon that sewage weighs (meaning a 40-gallon tank must support 333 pounds); it will bulge and, at the very least, distort and create leaks at the fittings--if it doesn’t actually crack.

Waste hose is another issue...all hose is not created equal...some are far more susceptable to becoming permeated with odor than others, and permeated hoses mean a boat that stinks inside.

The above is only the "first verse"...although a trouble-free, odor free sanitation system is actually a very simple one, there are principles involved that must be followed, in installing it and also in using it and maintaining all the parts of it--toilet, hoses, tank. And they're all covered in easy to understand language in my book (see _link_ in my signature). I'll also be glad to help you by phone and would actually enjoy an excuse to drive up to Greers Ferry if it would help.

I too have Drifter houseboat. That wood plug you are talking about sound to me like a water discharge or water pick up. anyway, get it seal welded. Many a Drifter have gone down due to threw hull fittings. Also, You should have a shower pump installed under the sink in the bathroom. That catches the water from the shower and from the sink and pumps it overboard. Under the bed in our state room, I have installed a 75 gallon freash water tank and a 25 gallon flush water tank. I have installed two 25 gallon plastic holding tanks in the engine compartment with a in line maserator pump. When I pump out, We hook to one tank and i pump from one tank to the other. in retro should have installed one big waste tank. Let me know if you would like some pictures I would be glad to post them.