Advertisement

Login

Marine Binoculars
Steiner 7 x 50
Low Price


Blogs

Latest Entries

Houseboats For Sale

Hobo Houseboat 1984
$ 50,000 Or Less
(03.12.2008)

21' Hobo Houseboat
$ 50,000 Or Less
(02.12.2008)

47 Boatel For Sale
$ 50,000 Or Less
(09.10.2008)

Custom Built in 1995
$ 50,000 Or Less
(15.09.2008)

1982 CARLCRAFT 57' H
$ 50,000 Or Less
(11.08.2008)


Home arrow Forum
Houseboat Forum
Welcome, Guest
Please Login or Register.    Lost Password?
Raritan Crown Head - Freshwater Flushing (1 viewing) (1) Guests
Go to bottom Post Reply Favoured: 0
TOPIC: Raritan Crown Head - Freshwater Flushing
#3820
Vic Willman (User)
Expert Boarder
Posts: 112
graphgraph
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Raritan Crown Head - Freshwater Flushing 4 Years ago Karma: 0  
Converting a Raritan Crown Head to flush by using onboard pressurized fresh water



There is a safe way to convert a Crown Head from seawater flushing to pressurized fresh water flushing from your onboard pressure water system. It isn't as simple as adding a check valve but it isn't overly complicated if you stop to think about how the system will work when completed.



The proper way to have a Crown Head flush with onboard pressurized fresh water is to add a tee to the existing pressure water lines in a convenient location, then add a shutoff valve to the output from the tee, add an electrically activated solenoid valve to the output from the shutoff valve, pipe from there to an atmospheric vacuum breaker (anti-siphon device), and from there pipe to the rear of the toilet bowl. When you push the button to flush the head, the solenoid valve opens to allow flush water to the bowl. At the same time the macerator and discharge pump are running to carry the contents of the toilet bowl away to your holding tank, treatment system or other ultimate destination.



How to accomplish this:



1) The seawater pump on the Crown Head must first be disabled. Go to the through-hull that supplies the water to the seawater pump and turn off the seacock, securing it with wire, etc., so that it won't be accidentally opened at some point in the future. Then go to the Crown Head and remove the short hose that runs up from the seawater pump to the elbow at the rear of the toilet bowl. After doing this, remove the 4 screws that hold the _meta_l plate on the rear of the seawater pump, remove the cover, and take out the rubber impeller from inside the pump.
Replace the pump cover and 4 screws. The intake pump is now disabled.



2) Turn off your pressure pump and relieve the pressure in your water lines by opening faucets. Find a convenient spot and add a tee to your existing pressure water line, with the output from the tee going to a shutoff valve, either a globe valve or a ball valve, either is O.K., preferably in 1/2" NPT size.



3) Next, you'll need a 1/2" NPT electrically-activated solenoid valve in the same DC voltage as the Crown Head - usually 12 volt (Raritan part # CWPS12A or equivalent part). This is the next component after the shutoff valve. Be sure to note on the solenoid valve which port is marked IN and which port is marked OUT - don't install it backwards. The two wires from the solenoid valve are lengthened and connected to the two lugs on the Crown Head where the large battery wires connect. It doesn't make any difference which wire from the solenoid valve goes to which terminal lug on the Crown Head - you can't get it wrong, it'll work properly either way. So there will now be two wires on each terminal lug on the Crown Head - the power supply wires and the two wires going to and from the solenoid valve.



4) From the output of the solenoid valve, plumb to a nominal 1/2" NPT atmospheric vacuum breaker (anti-siphon device) - Raritan part # PLAVB0-5, or equivalent. This fitting MUST be the last mechanical device before the water goes into the rear of the toilet bowl. It also MUST BE mounted a minimum of 4" higher than the top of the toilet bowl. Where to mount it? - that's the problem. Perhaps inside the wall behind the head; perhaps in an adjacent hanging locker. It doesn't have to be in the immediate proximity of the toilet, but it must be the last mechanical device before the water enters the toilet bowl, and must be a minimum of 4" higher than the top of the toilet bowl. This component seals tightly when water is going through it, but vents to atmosphere in both directions when there's nothing going through it. It is a safety device to stop any possibility of contaminating the drinking water in your tank(s) due to possible backflow from the head. It is a requirement of the National Plumbing Code for residential applications - and would be best used on a marine application, as well.



5) From the output of the vacuum breaker, run hose to the elbow at the rear of the toilet bowl. Be sure all plumbing connections are secure, that piping or hoses are supported at proper intervals, and that all joints are well-clamped. Turn off faucets, turn on pressure pump and check the system for leaks. When testing the system after completion, add about a gallon of water to the toilet bowl, then press and hold the button in (to flush the toilet). The discharge pump and macerator should run in the bottom of the head (much quieter operation than before) and after a few seconds’ time delay, rinse water should come into the bowl.



Converting the Crown Head macerating toilet to pressurized fresh water flushing adds three benefits: 1) you don't have the dank, dirty, smelly, polluted "green" marina water laying in the bottom of your toilet. 2) The sound level of the toilet, when running, will be remarkably lower - closer to the sound level of your toilet at home, often quieter. No more "747's" taking off in the middle of the night... 3) The battery power consumed by the head will be substantially less than before, as well.


Warning: Pressurized water must never be run directly into the seawater pump of any marine toilet - they aren't built to withstand pressure - they're built to move water only. -- Unless, of course, you're looking to have an unusual "fountain" in the head of the boat... Further, there's no provision to preclude contaminating your tanks when you pipe pressure water directly to the head without installing the necessary safety device(s
 
Report to moderator   Logged Logged  
  The administrator has disabled public write access.

#3821
OLD HOUSEBOATER (Moderator)
Moderator
Posts: 1372
graphgraph
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Raritan Crown Head - Freshwater Flushing 4 Years ago Karma: 3  
Great information Vic!
 
Report to moderator   Logged Logged  
  The administrator has disabled public write access.
#3822
easttnboater (User)
Junior Boarder
Posts: 34
graphgraph
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Raritan Crown Head - Freshwater Flushing 3 Years, 12 Months ago Karma: 0  
What are the approximate costs of the two parts (CWPS12A and PLAVB0-5)?  I have two 1989 model Crowns in my houseboat now.  One works perfectly.  The other has issues in the "freshwater" side.  I have been looking at the SeaEra connected to the pressurized water supply, but this conversion would work as well.  Just sort of depends on the difference in price vs having an all new toilet.
 
Report to moderator   Logged Logged  
  The administrator has disabled public write access.
#3823
Vic Willman (User)
Expert Boarder
Posts: 112
graphgraph
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Raritan Crown Head - Freshwater Flushing 3 Years, 12 Months ago Karma: 0  
Raritan retail prices:

CWPS12A, electric solenoid valve, 1/2" NPT, 12 volt, $174.00; PLAVB0-5, atmospheric vacuum breaker, 1/2" NPT, $69.00

Note that the sizes are 1/2" NPT and the hose sizes are 3/4" I.D. A 3/4" I.D. hose will slide over top of a 1/2" pipe nipple just about perfectly. Then you just clamp it down with hose clamps.
 
Report to moderator   Logged Logged  
  The administrator has disabled public write access.
#3824
easttnboater (User)
Junior Boarder
Posts: 34
graphgraph
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Raritan Crown Head - Freshwater Flushing 3 Years, 12 Months ago Karma: 0  
Thanks for the quick reply.  So, $243 to convert a 15 yr old Crown or $406 (discounted at the retail side of another board you moderate) for a new SeaEra 160HF912.  It would seem that a new SeaEra makes more sense.  Any issues with using a vented loop with a SeaEra? - the family likes to see water in the bowl - looks more like home.
 
Report to moderator   Logged Logged  
  The administrator has disabled public write access.
#3825
Vic Willman (User)
Expert Boarder
Posts: 112
graphgraph
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Raritan Crown Head - Freshwater Flushing 3 Years, 12 Months ago Karma: 0  
Another thing to consider, is what we call the SeaEra conversion kit.  It consists of the toilet _base_, with discharge pump and the solenoid valve and vacuum breaker.  You re-use your existing toilet bowl and seat and mount them on the new _base_.  It is part #160LF912.  The price for it (on the other site you'd mentioned) is $343.40.
 
Report to moderator   Logged Logged  
  The administrator has disabled public write access.
#3826
easttnboater (User)
Junior Boarder
Posts: 34
graphgraph
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Raritan Crown Head - Freshwater Flushing 3 Years, 12 Months ago Karma: 0  
I saw that.  This particular Crown toilet has a crack in the bowl - does not leak, but should not be reused.  Thanks for your help.
 
Report to moderator   Logged Logged  
  The administrator has disabled public write access.
Go to top Post Reply
Powered by FireBoardget the latest posts directly to your desktop